Run your Sony camera from anywhere.
Live picture, focus, exposure, video, photos, slow motion and time-lapse,
all in one clean window on your computer, with no cables.
Free and open source. No account, no subscription, no tracking. Formerly CamRemote. Older Intel Mac? Use this one.
Tested on the Sony A7S III. Which cameras work?
getremotecam.com · YouTube · Instagram · TikTok · Support it on Ko-fi

▶ Watch the walkthrough on YouTube: the demo, then setup start to finish.
Everything you'd reach for on the camera is a click away, and the picture stays big in the middle.
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The live picture over Wi-Fi, or full quality through an HDMI capture card. Histogram, zebras, peaking, a grid and the camera's own meter switch on from the bar under the picture. |
Click the picture to focus or track. Drag the focus ring, jump along the focus bar, or magnify to check what's sharp. |
Video, photos, bursts, brackets, S&Q slow motion, time-lapse and long exposures. Save to the card, your computer, or both. |
Three tabs, nothing hidden in menus. Video and Photo switch the camera for you and keep what you change while shooting right in front of you. Anything you only set once lives in Setup, out of the way.
The histogram and meter float over the corner of the picture: drag them anywhere, drag the corner to resize, and click for zebra and peaking levels. Settings your camera doesn't have are left out, so you only see what works. The window opens at the picture's shape, with no black bars, and comes back where you left it.
The live picture runs at around 8 frames a second over Wi-Fi on the A7S III, about 0.2 s behind the camera. If the Wi-Fi drops, the camera keeps recording and the app reconnects by itself.
Hide the camera by a feeder, up a tree or across the yard, and run it from wherever you are.
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Tick Allow phone control in Setup and open the address it shows on your phone. You get the live picture, record, tap to focus, the focus ring and the camera's settings. It works on your home Wi-Fi, and from anywhere with Tailscale. |
No Wi-Fi where the camera is? Put it on your iPhone's hotspot, open the RemoteCam iPhone app, and run it from a computer somewhere else over Tailscale. This comes with the iPhone app, now in beta on TestFlight. |
C1 to C4 save how the camera is set right now: mode, exposure, focus, and for video the file format and frame rate. The Video and Photo tabs each have their own four. Each button shows what's in it, like S&Q 240fps in XAVC S HD with its shutter, iris and ISO, and turns green while the camera matches it.
S&Q slow motion is right on the Video tab. Pick how fast the camera shoots and how fast it plays back: 240fps played at 24p is ten times slower. Save that to C1 and slow motion is one click away.
The Photo tab has three ways to shoot:
- Photo: pick Single, Burst, Timer or Bracket under Drive, then just the choices for that one: burst speed, timer delay, or bracket step and number of photos.
- Time-lapse: pick how often and how many, and press Start time-lapse. The app tells you how long it'll shoot and how long the clip will play. It takes one photo every 1 to 60 seconds, up to 9,999 photos, using the camera's own interval shooting.
- Long exposure: pick a length from 1 second to 8 minutes. Up to 30 seconds the camera times it. Longer, the app holds the shutter open on Bulb, so keep the window open until it's done. Tell it the ND filter on your lens and it suggests a length from the meter.
Tick Automatic recording and walk away. The app watches the picture, starts recording when something shows up, focuses on it, and stops once it's been gone for a while.
- Record when it sees: any Animal, a Bird only, or a Person.
- Stop once it's been gone for: 10 seconds, 15 seconds, 30 seconds or a minute.
- Focus on it: on or off.
Here it has spotted the egret, started recording, put a green box around it and a red outline around the picture. The check runs on your computer, and no pictures leave it.
Run the camera with no computer at all, just your phone and its hotspot. The app runs on iPhone and iPad and has the live picture, tap to focus, exposure, video, S&Q, photos, burst, time-lapse, C1 to C4 saved setups and automatic recording for animals, birds or people, and it can hand the camera to a computer anywhere over Tailscale.
Get the beta on TestFlight for iPhone and iPad (iOS 16 or newer). Open the link on the phone or iPad: it sends you to Apple's free TestFlight app first, then installs RemoteCam. It's a beta, so tell us what breaks. More about it.
| See | Live view over Wi-Fi, or full quality through an HDMI capture card. Rotate it for a camera on its side |
| Focus | Click the picture to focus or track, in MF or DMF drag the focus ring or jump along the focus bar. Focus boxes show what the camera is doing |
| Check focus | Focus magnifier and peaking |
| Expose | ISO, shutter and iris, with a histogram, zebras, the camera's meter and one-click base ISO on the A7S III |
| Record | One big button, with a red outline around the picture while rolling |
| Slow motion | S&Q, up to 240fps in HD on the A7S III |
| Shoot photos | Single shots, bursts, self-timer, brackets, time-lapses and long exposures, saved to your card, your computer or both |
| Save your setups | C1 to C4, four for video and four for photos, each back with one click |
| Set up the camera | Video format, frame rate, Super 35 crop, RAW or JPEG, white balance, audio and more, without touching a menu |
| Use both cards | See what's left on each slot, and format a card from the app. It asks first |
| Run it from anywhere | Phone control at home or over Tailscale, and from a computer or iPad through the iPhone app |
| Film wildlife | Automatic recording starts and stops for animals, birds or people |
| Stay informed | Battery and card warnings before you run out |
| Stop worrying | Reconnects by itself, and the camera keeps recording if Wi-Fi drops |
| Get help | Send log to the developer in Setup sends what went wrong in one click, only when you press it |
Handy keys: H histogram · Z zebras · P peaking · G grid · R rotate · F9 record, take a photo or start a long exposure (on a Mac, you may need to hold fn)
Allow about 10 minutes. You only do this once.
| 1 | Install the app | 2 minutes |
| 2 | Set up your camera | 5 minutes |
| 3 | Connect | 1 minute |
Tip
Have an AI assistant? It can walk you through all of this. Here's what to paste.
You'll need: a supported camera, Wi-Fi at the place you're shooting, and a Windows 11 PC or a Mac on macOS 14.1 or newer.
RemoteCam is tested on the A7S III. Sony says its remote software can control the cameras below over Wi-Fi, so they should work too, but nobody has tried them yet.
| Alpha full frame | A1 II · A1 · A9 III · A7R VI · A7R V · A7CR · A7S III (tested) · A7 V · A7 IV · A7C II |
| Alpha APS-C | a6700 |
| Cinema Line | FX6 (firmware 3.00 or later) · FX3 (firmware 2.00 or later) · FX3A · FX2 · FX30 · BURANO |
| Vlogging | ZV-E1 · ZV-E10 II |
| Camcorders | PXW-Z300 · PXW-Z200 · HXR-NX800 |
| Other | RX1R III · ILX-LR1 |
Update your camera to its latest firmware first. Some features, such as click to focus, may behave differently on your camera.
A9 II: Sony doesn't list it for Wi-Fi, but a user has it connected, with click to focus working. On the camera, turn Ctrl w/ Smartphone off, join your Wi-Fi under Wi-Fi Settings › Access Point Set., then under PC Remote Function turn PC Remote on, set PC Remote Cnct Method to Wi-Fi Access Point, and choose Pairing while RemoteCam is searching. To click to focus, set Focus area to Spot S, Spot M or Spot L (the camera calls them Flexible Spot). Time-lapse and card formatting don't work on it.
Won't work over Wi-Fi: A7R IV, A7R IVA, A7C, RX0 II, BRC-AM7 and FR7. Cameras not listed at all, such as the A7 III or a6400, aren't supported by Sony's software.
On Windows
- Open CamRemote-Windows-Setup.exe from your downloads.
- If a blue Windows protected your PC box appears, click More info, then Run anyway. It shows up because the app is new and free, not because anything is wrong.
- RemoteCam installs itself and puts an icon on your desktop.
On a Mac
- Open CamRemote-Mac from your downloads.
- Drag RemoteCam onto the Applications folder.
- Open RemoteCam from Applications. If your Mac asks whether you're sure, click Open.
Not sure which Mac you have? Click the Apple menu at the top left, then About This Mac. If it says Chip: Apple, use the main download. If it says Processor: Intel, use the Intel one.
The first time it opens, you'll see a short note about Sony's terms. Click OK or I agree to continue.
Close Sony's Monitor & Control app first. The camera only talks to one remote at a time.
These are the A7S III's menus. Most newer Sony cameras are very similar. If yours look different, search your camera's Help Guide for the name in bold.
On the camera, press MENU, then:
| Do this | Where to find it |
|---|---|
| Join your Wi-Fi. Pick your network and type its password. | Network › Wi-Fi › Wi-Fi Connect › On, then Access Point Set. |
| Allow remote control. | Network › Cnct./Remote Sht. › Remote Shoot Function › Remote Shooting › On |
| Find your login. Leave Access Authen. on. Then take a photo of the user and password on Access Authen. Info. You'll need them in a minute. | Network › Network Option › Access Authen. Settings |
| Turn on touch. This lets you click the picture to focus. | Touch Operation › On |
| Keep it awake. Otherwise the camera sleeps after a minute and the app can't find it. | Setup › Power Setting Option › Power Save Start Time › 30 Min. |
Note
Menu names can differ on older firmware. If yours don't match, update the camera first, using the firmware from your country's Sony support site. RemoteCam was tested on the A7S III with firmware 5.01.
- Make sure your computer and camera are on the same Wi-Fi.
- Open RemoteCam and click Connect camera…
- Click your camera in the list.
- Type the user and password from your photo.
- Click Connect.
If your computer asks about network access, say yes:
- Windows: tick Private networks and click Allow.
- Mac: click Allow when it asks about your local network. Without this, the app can't find the camera.
That's it. Your picture appears, and from now on RemoteCam reconnects by itself whenever you open it.
There's also an iPhone app that runs the camera with no computer at all, just your phone's hotspot. It has the live picture, tap to focus, exposure, video, S&Q, photos, burst, time-lapse and C1 to C4 saved setups. Photos and video stay on the camera's card.
When your computer already has the camera, the iPhone uses it through the computer, with nothing to type. The camera only takes one remote at a time, so the iPhone shows The camera is in use on another device and lists your computer. Tap Use it here. An iPhone that has connected to the camera before knows its password, so it goes straight in; the password itself isn't sent. Otherwise, the first time, your computer asks "iPhone wants to use the camera. Allow?", and after that the iPhone joins by itself. Your computer keeps the camera, so Automatic recording carries on there. This needs Let my other devices join ticked in Setup on the computer (it's on unless you turned it off), and both on the same Wi-Fi.
It can also record when something shows up, with the same rules as on a computer: turn on Automatic recording on the Video page and pick what Record when it sees watches for: any Animal, a Bird only, or a Person. It only works while RemoteCam is open on the phone's screen. iPhones stop apps that aren't on screen, so if you lock the phone or switch apps, it stops watching (and stops a take it started). While the option is on, the app keeps the screen awake, so keep the phone plugged in: a screen that's on for hours, the hotspot and the detector all use battery. The first time you turn it on, the detector takes up to a minute to get ready.
Use it from an iPad or a computer through the phone. Leave the camera outside on your phone's hotspot. In the iPhone app, open Setup and turn on Let my other devices join. An iPad on the phone's hotspot finds the iPhone by itself: tap Use it here. It goes straight in if it knows the camera's password (iCloud Keychain shares it from the iPhone), or you tap Allow on the iPhone once. A computer without RemoteCam can open the page in a browser instead: it's under From a web browser in the same place, with the address and the code to type once. From somewhere else, that needs Tailscale signed in to the same account on both.
- It only works while RemoteCam stays open on the iPhone's screen. iOS pauses apps in the background, so locking the phone or switching apps cuts the computer off until you come back. While the switch is on, the screen stays on, so keep the phone plugged in.
- It uses mobile data. The computer gets a smaller picture than the phone shows: 640 pixels wide, and 1, 3 or 8 pictures a second, which you pick in Setup. That's about 100, 280 or 750 MB an hour while a computer is watching, and nothing while none is. Setup shows how much it has really sent.
- Remove next to a device in Setup makes it ask again. The browser's code stays hidden until you tap Show code, and New code signs out every browser that used the old one. Only Tailscale and local network addresses are answered.
Get the beta on TestFlight for iPhone and iPad (iOS 16 or newer). Open the link on the device: it sends you to Apple's free TestFlight app first, then installs RemoteCam. If you have a Mac and a paid Apple developer account, you can build it yourself.
Using ChatGPT, Claude or another assistant? Paste this in, and it'll guide you one step at a time, from the camera menus to your first connection:
Help me set up RemoteCam for my Sony camera, one step at a time.
Read the guide at https://github.com/RemingtonWilcox/RemoteCam/blob/main/AGENTS.md
Ask which camera I have and whether I'm on Windows or Mac, then walk me through it in plain language.
Don't ask me for my camera password.
Send the developer a log. In Setup, under Something not working?, say what happened if you like and click Send log to the developer. You'll get a short reference, like K7Q2MX, to quote when you get in touch. Nothing is sent until you click. The log includes your camera's model and its address on your home network, but no passwords, photos or video, and it's kept for 90 days.
My camera isn't in the list
Check that the camera is on, on the same Wi-Fi as your computer (not a guest network), and has Remote Shooting on. If it still doesn't appear, find its address under Network › Wi-Fi › Display Wi-Fi Info., type that IP address into the box in RemoteCam and pick your camera underneath.
On a Mac, also check System Settings › Privacy & Security › Local Network, and turn RemoteCam on.
It says the user or password is wrong
Use the exact user and password from Access Authen. Info. Capitals matter, and the user often isn't admin.
It won't connect while Monitor & Control is open
Close Sony's phone app. The camera only takes one remote at a time.
The same goes for RemoteCam itself: the computer and the iPhone app can't both be connected. Each keeps trying while it's open, so if the phone lets go (the screen locks, or you switch apps), the computer takes the camera back. Close RemoteCam on the computer before you use the phone.
The picture is choppy or keeps dropping
The camera's Wi-Fi signal is weak. Move your router or a mesh point closer to the camera. Recording carries on in the camera even if the link drops.
Clicking the picture doesn't focus
Check that Tap does isn't set to Off, and that Touch operation is on in Setup.
If there's no Touch operation in Setup, the camera doesn't let the app change it, so make sure Touch Operation is on in the camera's own menu.
On the A9 II, set Focus area to Spot S, Spot M or Spot L (the camera calls them Flexible Spot). A click then moves the spot there and focuses.
The camera dials stopped working
While connected, RemoteCam is in charge of the settings. The dials go back to normal when you disconnect.
An update won't install because RemoteCam is in use
Versions before 1.0.9 could leave a hidden copy running after you closed them, while they were still looking for the camera. Restart your computer, then open the installer again. Newer installers work around it on their own.
It says the camera's fingerprint changed
That's normal after resetting the camera or changing its Access Authen. settings. If you did neither, choose Don't connect.
- Only tested on the A7S III. The other cameras on the list should work, but nobody has tried them yet.
- Warranty: Sony's terms say a camera controlled through an app like this is no longer covered by its manufacturer warranty.
- RemoteCam isn't made by, endorsed by or supported by Sony.
| Computer | Windows 11 x64, or macOS 14.1 or newer on Apple or Intel. Windows on ARM and Linux aren't supported |
| Connection | Wi-Fi on the same network as the camera, with an optional HDMI capture card for the picture |
| Wi-Fi live view | 1024×576 at around 8 frames a second on the A7S III |
| Photos to your computer | Full size, or a small JPEG. A full-size RAW took 4 to 12 seconds on the A7S III in our tests, depending on your network |
| Time-lapse | One photo every 1 to 60 seconds, up to 9,999 photos, using the camera's own interval shooting |
| Animal detection | Runs on your computer once a second. It knows birds, common mammals and people, and no pictures leave your computer |
| Phone control | A web page on your phone, over your home network or Tailscale, protected by an access code. The computer stays on with the app open |
| More than one computer | A second computer shows the camera through the first one: straight away on your own Tailscale, or after you allow it once. Home network and Tailscale only |
| Your camera password | Stays on your computer, in Windows Credential Manager or your Mac's Keychain |
| Built on | Sony's Camera Remote SDK v2.02.00 |
| Price | Free. The code is MIT licensed |
More Sony cameras. The A7R IV, A7R IVA, A7C, RX0 II, BRC-AM7 and FR7 are in Sony's software but can't be reached over Wi-Fi. (The A9 II can, as above.) A wired connection could bring some of them in. It hasn't been built yet.
Other brands. RemoteCam only speaks to Sony cameras today. Other makers publish their own developer kits, so the same idea could work there, but each brand would need its own connection built and tested from scratch:
| Canon | EDSDK and CCAPI. CCAPI works over Wi-Fi on supported EOS cameras |
| Fujifilm | X and GFX camera control SDK, over USB or Wi-Fi |
| Nikon | A developer SDK, by sign-up, with support varying by model |
If you'd use one of these, open an issue and say which camera you have.
More details and tips
- Video, Photo and Setup: the Video and Photo tabs switch the camera's mode and hold what you change while shooting. Setup holds what you set once or now and then, and shows the photo or video settings to match the camera.
- ISO / Shutter / Iris: ◀ ▶ step through values. Click the value to see every choice.
- Base ISO 640 / 12800: the A7S III's two native ISOs in S-Log3. 12800 is the cleanest choice in low light. These buttons only appear on the A7S III. On other cameras, use the ISO control.
- Focus wheel: works in MF (or DMF). Right is farther, left is nearer. Drag slowly for fine focus and faster for bigger moves.
- Focus bar: shows where focus sits between close up and infinity, if your camera and lens report it. Click it to jump there, or hold the flower or mountain button to keep moving.
- Focus boxes: the boxes on the picture are the ones the camera reports: green means in focus, and thicker boxes are tracking or a face. The outline of a large focus area isn't drawn. A small circle only shows where you clicked.
- Focus magnifier: the A7S III won't magnify over Wi-Fi in movie mode, so the ×2 and ×4 buttons enlarge the preview in the app instead. Click the picture to move around. It's the same preview pixels, so a Wi-Fi picture gets soft; a capture card shows more detail. If your camera does allow it, the buttons use the camera's own magnifier.
- Click the picture: works on the Video and Photo tabs. Right-click cancels a touch focus or tracking if the camera is holding one (Control-click on a Mac). In MF it autofocuses once, then returns to MF.
- Tap does: Focus, Tracking or Off. Off stops clicks doing anything. Sony's SDK doesn't offer the setting for a remote tap's function on the A7S III, so Tracking may only focus. The app tells you if the camera didn't start tracking.
- Picture source: in Setup. Camera over Wi-Fi needs no cable. Any HDMI capture card your computer sees is listed too. Plugged one in after opening the app? Click ↻. Set the camera's HDMI Resolution to 1080p and turn HDMI Info. Display off. On a Mac, the app asks for Camera and Microphone access the first time you pick one.
- Format a card: click ▾ next to the card readout. It works while the camera isn't recording, erases the whole card, and asks first. The app can't tell whether you've copied your footage off, so check that yourself.
- Rotate: ⟲ / ⟳ at the right of the bar under the picture, or R (Shift+R turns the other way), for a camera mounted on its side. The window reshapes to fit.
- Histogram and meter: drag the box to move it anywhere over the picture, and drag its corner to resize it. Click it, or Levels ▴ under the picture, to set the zebra level and the peaking strength and colour.
- Drive: Single, Burst, Timer or Bracket, then that one's choices. For a bracket, One press takes the whole set and Press each takes one photo of it per press, and 2+ and 2− take the normal photo and one brighter or darker. Other drive modes your camera has, like white balance brackets, are under ▾.
- Burst: pick Burst and a speed under Drive, then hold Take photo down.
- Long exposure: needs the camera in M. Up to 30 seconds the camera times it itself. Longer ones use Bulb, with this app holding the shutter, so keep the window open and the computer awake until it's done. With Long Exposure NR on, the camera then takes as long again to finish. When you go back to Photo, your shutter speed comes back.
- Super 35 crop: in Setup, on cameras that have it, like the A7S III and FX3. No Sony camera in this list records Open Gate over Sony's software.
- C1 to C4: click an empty one to save how the camera is set now: mode, exposure, focus, and for video the format and frame rate. Click it again later to put all of that back. The Video and Photo tabs each have their own four. A preset turns green while the camera matches it. Right-click to save over it or clear it (Control-click on a Mac). If the camera's mode dial is somewhere a preset can't reach, the app says so.
- S&Q (slow and quick motion): under Recording on the Video tab, switch between Normal and S&Q. In S&Q, S&Q shoots at is how many frames a second the camera captures, and S&Q plays at is the speed it's played back at, so 240fps played at 24p is ten times slower. The fastest rates need an HD file format. Save one to a preset, like 1080p at 240fps on C1, to get to it in one click.
- Time-lapse: pick Time-lapse at the top of the Photo tab. The big button then says Start time-lapse, and Stop time-lapse once it's running.
- Photos on your computer: choose Computer, Card or Both under Saving in Setup. They go to
Pictures/CamRemoteuntil you click Change folder. A full-size RAW can take 4 to 12 seconds to arrive, so for bursts and time-lapses use Both with Small JPEG: the card keeps the full files. - Automatic recording: turn it on under Record, then pick what to watch for, how long to wait after it's gone, and whether to focus on it. It runs on your computer, and no pictures leave it. Animal means birds and a few other animals (cats, dogs, horses, sheep, cows, elephants, bears, zebras and giraffes), and something it doesn't know, like a squirrel, may not set it off. Bird ignores everything else, and Person watches for people instead. A green box follows what it found while the option is on. Set Rotate to match how the camera is mounted first: it sees far better the right way up. Takes stop at 5 minutes and start again if the animal is still there. If it keeps being set off by something that isn't an animal, like splashing water, it learns to ignore that spot for 10 minutes. It only stops takes it started itself.
- Updates: when the app opens, it asks GitHub once for the latest version number. If there's a newer one, a green button appears at the bottom of the window. It opens the download page and installs nothing by itself.
- Shooting guides: worked out from the preview, not the recorded file, so a Monitor LUT changes them. At Wi-Fi preview size, peaking shows the plane of focus. Use the magnifier for critical focus.
- Recording timer: keeps counting through a dropped link or an app restart. A take already rolling when the app first sees it shows a +.
- Phone control: works on your home network and over Tailscale, and needs the access code. The app hides it until you click Show code, and New code replaces it and signs phones out. The computer must stay on with the app open. On an iPhone, use Share › Add to Home Screen for a full-screen app.
- Two computers, one camera: the camera takes one remote at a time. When RemoteCam is already running the camera on one computer, RemoteCam on your other computer finds it and shows the camera through it, instead of fighting over it. If both computers have Tailscale signed in to your account, it just joins. Otherwise, the first time, the computer with the camera asks "… wants to use the camera. Allow?", and after that it joins by itself, at home and over Tailscale. The picture then passes through the other computer, so it comes a little later. To hold the camera on the computer you're at, click Use the camera here: this computer connects to the camera itself, and the other one joins it instead. The button shows on a computer that has connected to the camera before. To stop one joining, click Remove next to it under Other devices in Setup, or untick Let my other devices join. Windows or your Mac may ask whether RemoteCam can use the network the first time: allow it on private networks.
- Audio: live meters need HDMI through a capture card, because the camera sends no sound over Wi-Fi. Aim for loud sounds peaking around −12 dB and never reaching 0.
- Keeping the same address: reserve the camera's IP address in your router so it never changes. The app usually finds the camera again anyway.
Build it yourself (for developers)
You'll need Sony's Camera Remote SDK from their site. Unzip the version for your system into vendor/CrSDK so vendor/CrSDK/RemoteCli.zip exists. Never commit anything under vendor/.
The animal detector needs one more file, which the app can be built without (the option just won't appear). Save it as vendor/BirdModel/rfdetr_small.onnx. It adds about 115 MB to the app, and the iPhone app uses the same file:
curl -L --create-dirs -o vendor/BirdModel/rfdetr_small.onnx https://huggingface.co/onnx-community/rfdetr_small-ONNX/resolve/main/onnx/model.onnxWindows: install Git, CMake, the .NET 10 SDK, Python and Visual Studio's C++ tools, then:
powershell -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -File .\build.ps1Mac: install Xcode's command line tools, then CMake, Python and the .NET 10 SDK, then:
./build-mac.shiPhone: it doesn't use Sony's SDK. The only thing it takes from vendor/ is the animal detector's rfdetr_small.onnx, and it builds without it. On a Mac with Xcode, install CMake and XcodeGen, then:
cd app/CamRemote.iOS
./build-deps.sh
DEVELOPMENT_TEAM=<your team id> ./build-iphone.shRun these in Terminal on the Mac itself, so signing can reach your Keychain. Then install the app on your phone from Xcode's Devices window.
Making the downloads: package-windows.ps1 builds the installer with Inno Setup. package-mac.sh builds both notarized disk images, and its comments explain the one-time setup. Upload those files and libusb-source.zip to a GitHub release.
How it's put together:
native/CamBridge/: a small C++ library that wraps Sony's SDK in a flat C API returning JSON.MacSupport.mmadds the Mac's Keychain, keep-awake, capture and audio code.app/CamRemote/: the Windows app (WPF, .NET 10) and the camera code both apps share.app/CamRemote.Mac/: the Mac app (Avalonia, .NET 10). A change to a window or control usually needs making in both.app/CamRemote.iOS/: the iPhone app (SwiftUI). It talks to the camera directly over SSH and PTP/IP, and shares no code with the others.AnimalTrigger.swiftfollows the same rules asBirdTrigger.cs, so a change to one usually needs making in both.tools/: generates names from the SDK headers, draws the icon, writes the notices and holds the packaging settings.
Notes from Sony's SDK reference (v2.02.00) for the A7S III:
- Remote touch focus acts by itself in movie mode only. In photo mode the app half-presses the shutter to make the camera focus. Focus positions are a 640×480 grid over the picture.
- MovieRecord "Down" toggles recording; Sony asks for "Up" right after it.
- Over Wi-Fi the camera reports battery in bars, not percent, so the app shows a range.
- There's no live audio level over the SDK.
Licence
RemoteCam's code is MIT licensed (see LICENSE). The downloads for Windows and Mac include Sony's Camera Remote SDK libraries under Sony's licence, plus open-source parts listed in NOTICES.md. The SDK isn't in this repository, and the iPhone app doesn't use it.





